Corte della Pazienza, June 10, 2011—WE BEGIN TO CHOOSE eating places a little more carefully, as there's less than two weeks left. After a long futile walk this morning we found ourselves near San Zanipolo, not that far from the Fondamente Nove, where one of L.'s choices lay: so off we went in search of dinner.
It was a pretty hilarious meal, more because of our company at the next table than for any other reason. I won't go into that here; maybe one of these days at The Eastside View.
Algiubagio — named for its four partners, presumably Alberto, Giulia, Barbara, and Giovanni — is an upscale place; this was by far the most raffinato meal we've had here this trip. I took one of the four set menus, which began with a truly delicioous pile of bresaola, thin-sliced raw beef dressed with olive oil, set atop a generous serving of crisp, tender, tasty small-leafed arugula.
Alongside, a millefoglie containing warm tomino cheese and lardo — I confess this is what had attracted me — drizzled with artichoke honey.
Next came a plate of large ravioli, stuffed with fossa cheese, topped with little cubes of goose confit, the whole dressed with a black-truffle infused sauce. This was slightly over-salted, but otherwise very nicely conceived and executed: I was very happy. Happy, too, with the demitasse that followed: caffè Il Doge, my favorite Venetian coffee.
Pinot grigio in carafe• Algiubagio Restaurant, Fondamenta Nuove, 5039, Cannaregio, Venezia; 041 523 6084
ON THE MORNING WALK we chanced upon a one-stall greengrocer market in a small campiello, where we bought a package of shell beans — borlotti, I'm pretty sure they were. I asked the vendor how to cook them, and she seemed incredulous: who would not know. You put them in water, she said, and bring it to a boil, and put in some olive oil, and cook them until they're done. And serve them with chopped rosemary; they have to have chopped rosemary.
And L. followed the instructions exactly this evening. We were still sated from lunch, so the beans, and a green salad, and a peach and an apricot afterward, were all we needed to set us to humming with satisfaction.