Saturday, July 31, 2010

Santi. Sante!

Eastside Road, July 31, 2010—
A CELEBRATION TONIGHT for the return of health, with a couple of friends we hadn't seen in some time, in an Italian restaurant we quite liked in an earlier incarnation but hadn't yet visited in its present one.

I ordered and ate too much, of course; but I'm really trying hard to get back in shape. A mangiatore has to maintain a certain physique, and that requires dedication and discipline. Since it's the last day of the month, a full calendar month since I was felled by unseen forces, it seemed appropriate to dig in: dig in I did.

I began with an order of polenta with Fontina from the Val d'Aosta, deliciously flavored by the wood-burning oven in which it was finished. Then a lamb shank — the lamb from our county is always reliable — slow-braised and served with fregole, black olives, wilted escarole, and gremolata. Chunks of ricotta salata were strewn about the dish: they seemed irrelevant, and I picked them out and ate them separately. (They were good.) Afterward, "baby" lettuces in a balsamic-olive oil dressing. A very delicious and nutritious and, I hope, weight-gaining dinner.
Grecanico, Di Giovanna (Sicily), 2008: fruity, serious, substantial, though only 12.5%; Valpolicella ripasso, Santi (?) (failed to take notes: I'm new to this wine-drinking business
  • Santi, 2097 Stagecoach Road, Santa Rosa; tel: (707) 528 1549; www.santirestaurant.com
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