Sturgeon

Grants Pass, OR, Aug. 31—

ON THE ROAD again, checking into a cheap motel, eating a late supper at a place we've tried before. After a so-so salad with sweet raspberry vinaigrette we had the daily special: baked sturgeon with mushrooms sautéed in butter, broccoli and zucchini on the side, and a scoop of mashed potatoes — instant, Lindsey suspects — oddly decorated with two chives stuck into the scoop, vertically, like an old-time rabbit-ears TV antenna.

Pinot gris: "Forest," 2008

• Rivers Edge, 1936 Rogue River Hwy, Grants Pass OR; tel. 541-479-3938