Via Corsini, Rome, Nov. 5—
NOT FAR FROM our apartment, at 82, via del Moro, near the Lungaretta, is a little pasta shop run by a Sardinian family. La Pasta all'uovo, says the sign over the door, fresh egg pasta: tortellini, agnolotti, ravioli Sardi, fettucine, canneloni, gnochetti Sardi (those are especially nice), and half a dozen other pastas, all turned out fresh every day. You can see them being made, the filled potato sabadas, if that's they are, delicately pinched between busy fingers.
We first found the Piras sisters in their Laboratorio Artigianale four years ago during another Roman sojourn, and were happy to return today. Tonight we have tortellini with grated Parmesan (you buy a chunk of cheese; the merchant grates it for you) and black pepper. With them, a nice head of fennel cut up to be dipped in oil and salt.
Merlot: Trentino, La Vis, 2005
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